Lao, Luang Prabang
02/04/05 Filed in: Travel
Dropping down into dense grey clouds the air in the
cabin takes on the surprising aroma of campfire
smoke. Everything is still quite grey outside but I
can begin to make out mountains all around, and
there, almost hidden between, a runway. Stepping out
onto Lao soil there is a soft rain, not water but of
ash. More on this later…
This week I'm in northern Laos, in Luang Prabang a small town situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Luang Prabang is an interesting fusion of traditional Buddhist and old French styles. Perhaps the best contributions of the French have been the many bakeries, the French colonial architecture and perhaps a special something, a sweetness, in some of the younger faces.
By afternoon an open market takes over the main road through town, an intoxicating couple hundred yards. Walking here one sees a never-ending array of fresh fruits, cooked foods, baked breads and wonderful cakes (coconut, my favorite). The local crafts and arts are everywhere and you'd need several large suitcases to hold just a small sampling. But for me it's an especially good place to watch the local people. My normal smile is returned by a beautiful flowing sweetness that does not seem to end.
During the day I take the slow boat up the Mekong River to visit even smaller villages. Along the way up river I pass fishing villages and limestone caves with thousands of small Buddha statues inside. In many places you see bamboo racks one after another, holding rice cakes drying in the sun. Or frames holding beautiful hand made paper with flowers and bamboo leaves. Still, if you've come all this way why not catch a glimpse of the primitive local alcohol stills. Though I didn't give it a try, I'm told they brew very potent rice liquor, Lao whisky.
But if you want something really thrilling then you hire one of the small speedboats for a trip up river. These little racers have car engines, no mufflers, and they nearly fly up the river. The regular boat trip to Chiang Mai takes days but in the speedboat, only a few hours. Due to frequent accidents passengers are advised to wear protective gear (motorcycle helmets and life jackets). Oh, and before you strap yourself in, check to see that your driver hasn't been dipping into the Lao whisky!
Many of the temples here in Luang Prabang are covered with intricate inlaid work, both inside and out. The Tree of Life on the side of one tiny temple building was magnificent. Wondering the courtyard, I come across young monks using a bamboo pole to pick green mangos from a tall tree. One of the monks jokes with me and asks if I know about green mangos (most foreigners don't) and when I say yes, he happily picks one for me. Lay Wah taught me how to eat them green while I was in Burma, tart and great in salads, tasting a little like green apples.
Some hours later, using country dirt roads, I'm far into hill country exploring remote villages. Most of the adults are off in the fields in the afternoons getting ready for the next planting, before the rainy season. This means clearing trees and burning anything that remains. There are thousands of small fires. This explains the constant thick smoky haze and constant falling ash everywhere. I'm told if I come back after the rainy season it seems like another world. Until then, you'll forgive me if there are no photos of beautiful lush green sweeping mountain panoramas. Because of the haze, even I had to use my imagination.
For now maybe I'll just take a swim in one of the pools below a waterfall. Just another day wondering along the pathless path...
Late follow-up: Because of extra thick smoke from all the clearing and burning of fields, nearly all flights into and out of the Luang Prabang have been canceled, for the second day. Lao Airlines is operating some limited flights (their pilots are allowed landings with very limited visibility clearance). I hear it should be any minute now, for the last 7 hours. Next time I’ll try the slow boat down the Mekong.
Please check out all the photos on my SE Asia Portfolio page available at NavaSwan.com
This week I'm in northern Laos, in Luang Prabang a small town situated at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Luang Prabang is an interesting fusion of traditional Buddhist and old French styles. Perhaps the best contributions of the French have been the many bakeries, the French colonial architecture and perhaps a special something, a sweetness, in some of the younger faces.
By afternoon an open market takes over the main road through town, an intoxicating couple hundred yards. Walking here one sees a never-ending array of fresh fruits, cooked foods, baked breads and wonderful cakes (coconut, my favorite). The local crafts and arts are everywhere and you'd need several large suitcases to hold just a small sampling. But for me it's an especially good place to watch the local people. My normal smile is returned by a beautiful flowing sweetness that does not seem to end.
During the day I take the slow boat up the Mekong River to visit even smaller villages. Along the way up river I pass fishing villages and limestone caves with thousands of small Buddha statues inside. In many places you see bamboo racks one after another, holding rice cakes drying in the sun. Or frames holding beautiful hand made paper with flowers and bamboo leaves. Still, if you've come all this way why not catch a glimpse of the primitive local alcohol stills. Though I didn't give it a try, I'm told they brew very potent rice liquor, Lao whisky.
But if you want something really thrilling then you hire one of the small speedboats for a trip up river. These little racers have car engines, no mufflers, and they nearly fly up the river. The regular boat trip to Chiang Mai takes days but in the speedboat, only a few hours. Due to frequent accidents passengers are advised to wear protective gear (motorcycle helmets and life jackets). Oh, and before you strap yourself in, check to see that your driver hasn't been dipping into the Lao whisky!
Many of the temples here in Luang Prabang are covered with intricate inlaid work, both inside and out. The Tree of Life on the side of one tiny temple building was magnificent. Wondering the courtyard, I come across young monks using a bamboo pole to pick green mangos from a tall tree. One of the monks jokes with me and asks if I know about green mangos (most foreigners don't) and when I say yes, he happily picks one for me. Lay Wah taught me how to eat them green while I was in Burma, tart and great in salads, tasting a little like green apples.
Some hours later, using country dirt roads, I'm far into hill country exploring remote villages. Most of the adults are off in the fields in the afternoons getting ready for the next planting, before the rainy season. This means clearing trees and burning anything that remains. There are thousands of small fires. This explains the constant thick smoky haze and constant falling ash everywhere. I'm told if I come back after the rainy season it seems like another world. Until then, you'll forgive me if there are no photos of beautiful lush green sweeping mountain panoramas. Because of the haze, even I had to use my imagination.
For now maybe I'll just take a swim in one of the pools below a waterfall. Just another day wondering along the pathless path...
Late follow-up: Because of extra thick smoke from all the clearing and burning of fields, nearly all flights into and out of the Luang Prabang have been canceled, for the second day. Lao Airlines is operating some limited flights (their pilots are allowed landings with very limited visibility clearance). I hear it should be any minute now, for the last 7 hours. Next time I’ll try the slow boat down the Mekong.
Please check out all the photos on my SE Asia Portfolio page available at NavaSwan.com